Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Indonesia In 13 Days



First Up, Bali!

Bali is truly the Island Paradise everyone says it to be. What is amazing about it is that it has a bit of everything, and every bit is uniquely Balinese it seems.
I had picked the island as a first destination due to its surf. Even despite it not being surf season we managed to find some incredible waves down on the Southern tip where spots like Padang Padang and Lacerations lived up to their world renowned status. We, however, too timid and amateur could only observe in awe and chose to stick with some safer beach surf in Kuta.

I quickly learned that the best way to see the landscape in Bali was by motorbike. Refusing to compete in the jungle traffic that litters the island, I was happy riding shotgun behind my more motor-conscious friends. So we drove for a day, up and down the coast line. Seeing the beaches, the rice paddies, the architecture, the locals, and the sunset. What struck me the most after having had multiple near run-ons with other drivers was the lack of safety protection on the children. It's an odd thing: the adults usually wear helmets, but the kids jump on and off their bikes all day with no protection or inhibitions. A friend soberly explained it to me this way: "You can replace a kid, but you can't replace an adult."

Wise man.

In the end, we extended our time in Bali because we had all fallen in love with the island, and each one of us for different reasons. Some of us for the beaches and surf, and some for the legal shrooms. Bali was every bit a paradise of deep sea diving, ethnic cultural dancing, temple galaxies, open water surfing, and late night debaucheries.

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Then There Was Java

If there is one word to describe Java, or at least our time there, it would be 'Epic'.
In Java everything was supersized: the good and the bad.

Compared to Bali, Java is huge. Therefore to explore the island takes that much more time. As a consequence we found ourselves in a lot more car rides that were a lot bumpier and bitter. We often found ourselves squeezing through traffic and flying over potholes we thought were our last. To add to the road-side frustration, by the time we had arrived in Java our diet had caught up to some individuals and turned their vacation into 3 days of hell. Keep in mind, (Western) washrooms are a near foreign concept to Indonesians. They mostly consist of holes in the ground with no flush nor toilet paper. Doesn't make for a peaceful duty.
Then there was also the haggling and the bargaining. In Bali the street vendors, hostel attendees, and car drivers had all mastered the art of befriending us tourists. Every where you went they would shout, "Nice price for you, my Friend". And friends indeed we thought we had made after a minute of bargaining. As for the Javanese, however, no length of time could turn them into your friend. Most of the time we walked away with a price double what we had asked for.
I should have known it would have been so by the peculiar lack of "my Friend" after all their haggling.

Bitterness aside, Java was also thankfully, Amazingly, Epically Good.

First there was the wee-hour-morning Trek of Mt. Bromo, an active volcano. This was hands down one of the most amazing things I have ever done/ seen: watching the sunrise over a land dotted with active volcanoes as you walk around the rim of one that is spewing up hot, sulfurized smoke. And to add to the beauty of it all, there you find one giant Hindu temple at the foot of the mountain, the only sign of humanity for miles and miles of desert land.
Epic.
Then there was the Borobadur Historical Park. Java is rich in history, and we found it here at the center of the island. We started our day off with Pranamban, the largest Hindu temple in SEA before making our way to the ancient Buddhist temple, Borobadur.
It has been a couple years now that I have dreamed about visiting this very temple. Fortunately for us, when we arrived the days rain had driven away nearly all the tourists. I was, amazingly, able to get beautiful shots from the top of the temple without having to worry about cropping out others-- a highly rare occurance. Walking the six platforms, contemplating the images of the Buddha on the walls was one of the most fulfilling things I have ever done. Even now thinking back upon my visit I get shivers and can't help but to feel an amazing sense of accomplishment. I will never forget how I felt when I reached the top, with the mist lifting off of the mountains around us, and the stillness of the air in which a historic smell still clung to it, as I stared at the Buddha and 72 Buddhas stared back.

There is one Epic check off my List.




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Last Stop-- Sumatra


“That’s it, leave me here. Day two in the Jungle and I have become Jungle Lady. Orangutans, Black Siamang’s, they are my new found kin. Lizards and turtles, future delicacies. Tigers, don’t scare me! This is my home.” (Feb. 21.2010)

We ended our ‘holiday’ in Sumatra, Indonesia with a base camp in Bukit Lawang where the Island's National Park for Orangutans is located. Here our goal was to confront a lost frontier-- the Jungle!

The best way to describe our time in Bukit Lawang is through song, namely the Lion King’s/ Beach Boys’ “Mighty Jungle”. We sang it as we hiked, ate, bathed, chilled, and dreamed. After Bali and Java, the quiet and peace of this natural enclave was a welcome change. Looking back at my travel log and reading the thoughts that had come to me then I realize that the Jungle really did clear my mind and calm my nerves. On Day 10, The Night We Camped in the Jungle, I write about lightning and the lightning you do not see, but perceive (?). No, I was not high (the guides were though, see picture below), I was just what you might call, aimless... . Sometime during the night, just before bed, off in the distance a storm had settled over the land. From our camp, lying on the rocks by the river we could see the random flashes of light every now and then light up the sky. While resting there, eyes closed, I had a perplexing thought come over me: what do you call the act of seeing lightning with eyes closed? Surely not seeing I concluded within two journal pages. (In hindsight, I would like to retract my conclusion and leave it up for debate.)


Aimless thoughts abounded no doubt. Sumatra was the Jungle Paradise I had been looking for.

“We-de-de-de, de-de-de-de-de-de, we-um-um-a-way
We-de-de-de, de-de-de-de-de-de, we-um-um-a-way”

Picture courtesy of UCok,
our Jungle guide assistant
who when high was put to
the task of staying silent by
keeping busy and drawing
in our journals.


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After 13 days, I am ready for more. Indonesia is a beautiful country, rich in nature, culture, and history. If I could, I would make it a point to visit all 1,000 plus of its islands within my lifetime. But alas, life expectancies and bank fees restrict me and I'll have to settle on finding the magic and feeling complete at my next Indo destination, to be soon told....

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

6 days of Freddi le grand and Walt disney

3 Days of Singapore: How an Ambassador would Do It

Meeting new people is always nice and exciting.
But after a while new becomes old and past is wanting for future. Last week, I had the luxury of hosting part of my past: Freddie le grand!!!! (as well as now new-old friend, Walt disney!!!).
Already, only a month in this city and I felt like a young ambassador showing it off, from historic Raffles, merry Sentosa, to ippity Clarke Quay (pronounced 'key' f.y.i.). In terms of my knowledge and diplomacy, you'd have to ask the boys how I scored. But in terms of tastes, I know without a doubt all bases were covered. In all, I guess you could say that our time together-- Srah, Freddie, and Walt-- could best be described by a series of tastes...

First, there was Durian.

Bright and early Wednesday morning, before setting off for the day I dared the boys to try something new-- and bold-- for breakfast.
Never again.
If you have ever tasted durian, then you would know why-- if not, you should look it up. It's no wonder these signs are popular warnings throughout Southeast Asia: http://blog.tropicalsky.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/no-durian.jpg

It took five hours of beach and sun to get the rotten (garlic? or p****?) smell off of our fingers. Eating durian in the morning is a bad, bad idea.

Our taste buds then wandered to the ah-so-famous Singapore Sling.

The Sling is Singapore's historic drink. In search of it, we traveled to the iconic Raffles Hotel where in 1910 the drink was invented by a now iconic historic bartender whose name evades my memory. Unfortunately, after learning that 24$/drink would be our price and, hence, out of our league we settled on finding it elsewhere.
Luck have it Sentosa island was having a 1-for-1 (forget 2-for-1) on all drinks. So we order 4 slings for 30$ thank you very much Mr. Historic Bartender, only to quickly discover it's 30$ too much-- the Sling Sucks (sorry Mr. Historic Bartender). (on a side note: the mojito's also sucked... may have been the bar, or, what I've concluded, typical of Singaporean drinks....).

On our way back to the mainland, after a day of bad tastes I was craving a good chocolate. Indulging my senses upon finding the only imported stall, I happily purchased the best 20$ brownie of my life.

Taste buds relieved, shock therapy over, we head over to Clarke Quay (Key) for a night of drinking and dancing. Pre-drinks in order, buzzed to spins, with the boys sharp in their tailor made shirts we quickly get rejected from the clubs.
Unfortunately, flip flops don't "go" with tailor made.

Looking for the next best, we make our way to Clinic. Known for its atmosphere-- wheelchairs, operating tables, and IV drips-- I decide to join the ambiance and order myself one red IV drip, please!
Let it be said, Clinic is the place to be seen. But what all the onlookers have never known until now is that the thing to see is a bunch of tipsy tourists getting ripped. Fifty-dollar non-alcoholic kool-aid does not make a great cocktail...
As Obama's cousin (yes, I did just casually throw her in) told us: "Don't put my face up on Facebook, I don't want people seeing Obama's cousin drinking koolaid."
Blunt. Well said. (few words omitted, like "shit", "fuck", and "waste" (but only I could know the full extent of that last word...)).
Anyways, 50$ later we leave, I as drunk as when I came only slightly more sugar-buzzed and armed with a nice 2 hour photo-shoot with IV drip.

Defeated, we begin the trek home stopping, but of course, at the Golden Arch for one last taste to complete the day.

Tab for the day:
Durian: 2$
Singapore Sling: 30$
Other Drinks: Lost count
Hawkers: Part of Surviving...
Brownie: 20$
IV Drip: 50$
Mccy D's: 6$
Priorities: straight